FLOWER BOX

We keep a flower box up at the cemetery for fresh flowers in the warm season, and artificial flowers during the cold season. The last box I made, I assembled all the side and end boards with the grain running horizontally. Even with multiple coats of spar urethane, over time the oak takes on moisture and swells. The wood will expand more sideways of the grain direction than lengthways. Since the grain direction on the base was running opposite to the grain on the end boards, the base, which originally was 9 ½” wide, grew ½” more than the end. You can see by the picture what this did to the flower box.

100_2178

 

With the new flower box I have the grain on the end and middle boards running the same direction as the base. Also instead of using screws to assemble the box, I decided to use this project as practice on trying several different joinery methods.

100_2183

 

For the end boards I decided to use loose tenon joinery. I glued everything during assembly, but since this is prone to a lot of expansion and contraction, I didn’t want to rely on just the glue to hold it together, even if it is waterproof glue. Because of that I put ¼” dowels into the loose tenons so they would stay put. I then slit the ends of the tenons and drove walnut wedges into the tenons to squeeze the tenons tight in the end boards. I cut the tenons 1/32” narrower than the mortise, which is a good idea when you have multiple mortises, to add a little fudge factor. The tenons were 2″ long. I cut  slots with a band saw 1/8″ in from the edge, and 1  1/4″ long.   The contrasting color of the wedges adds to the looks of the finished product.

 

I made a “sliding dovetail” for the middle board.

 

I used biscuit joinery to splice the two pieces together for the base.

 

I used dowels to attach the front and back. Each dowel is drilled in at a different angle, so that the front or back can’t slide off even if the glue fails. To trim the dowels off before sanding them down smooth, you will want to poke some heavy paper, etc. over the dowel and cut it down with a hacksaw blade, or a fine pull saw like the one shown.

 

 

I used a tongue and groove joint on the front glass support.

100_2127

 

Concealed dowels were used to hold on the front glass support and to splice the end board pieces together.

100_2094

 

On the back board I used a half lap to join two short lengths together.

 

All finished.

100_2240

Advertisements

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s